The Frog Princess

While teaching at schools overseas for twenty years, Burma was one of my most favorite destinations. After arriving in Asia, Burma was my first destination. It's where I discovered lacquerware, giraffe women, Thanaka, got the very worst haircut of my life, and discovered a delightful "Cinderella" story.

I first went to Burma in the early 90s just after it opened to the West. The Burmese people were very friendly and so hungry for anything from the outside world. I traded every stitch of clothing not on my back for lacquerware and other treasures. I have never had that kind of experience anywhere else. My best treasure was a huge vase, as wide as my outstretched arms in a circle. The shopkeeper said it was made by his father, who had recently died. I said he couldn't sell it; he had to save this heirloom! But, the man wanted to sell it to me. I bought the vase for five dollars and a backpack. He knew I would treasure it. He also knew I would send him photographs of the vase. (Of course, I did.)

My favorite place in Burma is Bagan, a UNESCO Heritage Site stuffed full of historic pagodas of enormous size. It is where you get your lacquerware while in Burma. There weren't many tourists in the area when I visited. So, while I climbed around the pagodas (taking limited photos in the days of film photography), I was easily discovered by a charming kid, about eight years old, who wanted to hone his English skills. Aung Aung was delightful. He had to meet many, many people in Bagan. I was just one among the crowds. But, for my travel experience, he was a highlight in Bagan. I even looked him up again four years later.

When I left Bagan, Aung Aung and his mother met me at the hotel to send me off. They presented me a golden lacquerware vase that I have treasured ever since. I never heard from him after that. And, I always wondered what happened to this kid. Decades later, in a world the with Internet, I located my long-lost friend. I'm very pleased to dedicate this book to Aung Aung.